After week of excellent dining in Tallinn, the dinner at Ö was a fitting coda to the many fine meals in this beautiful and (culinarily) surprising town - the best.
The two young chefs Martin Meikas and Ranno Paukson continue the excellence of this restaurant that boasts a unique pedigree of talented Estonian chefs. The space of the restaurant is well laid out, the service very professional yet warm, and the menu offers top seasonal and (mostly) local ingredients imaginatively used by the chefs with a nod to the "northern" cuisine tradition that has taken the world by storm.
After four innovative and startlingly good amuse bouche we absolutely loved the variation on celery starter - celery root baked in rye crust and various other parts of the celery plant in caramel butter - a total winner of a dish. More traditional the perfectly seared scallops, with a slight juniper burn, a lively juniper butter, and the unique "scallop paper," basically paper thin slices of dried scallops, intense in taste and with a lovely texture.
The main courses of (lightly) smoked flounder with sugar peas in various preparations (we loved the fermented ones) and a hanger steak with alliums and spring morels on an intense demi-glace sauce were both well executed, as were the desserts of sorrel sorbet with milk caramel and blackcurrant leaf ice cream with a woodsy conifer foam.
The wine and spirit list is well chosen, we especially enjoyed a Trockenbeerenauslese from Burgenland with our desserts and a fruit-intense raspberry eau-de-vie, also from Austria.
Prices for this level of cooking are more than fair. We had probably the best meal of of our trip so far at Ö.
If you love fine food, it is worth making a reservation here. In the summer time, reservations are easy to obtain. Lovers of fine cooking will be glad they came here.
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