This was my first trip back to Kathmandu since 1995, and I was rather shocked by the changes that have taken place: noise, motor bikes, unrestrained construction and infrastructure that can't cope with the population increase.
Happily we discovered Stupa View Lodge after sleepless nights in the Thamel and Lazimpat areas. It's located in Swayambunath - the Monkey Temple - area. And it was perfect for our needs. We stayed 10 nights and it was $20 a night for a twin.
The family who run it are very kind and thoughtful. We had full use of a kitchen, and there are nearby markets and shops to buy supplies. The rooms are simple and immaculately clean, with good storage. The water pressure in the showers was fine.
Best of all is the view from the roof terrace. Often we spent hours up there just reading and watching fluttering prayer flags. As there are many monasteries in the area, we felt much closer to a true experience than when we stayed in the center of Kathmandu.
It's an easy walk to Thamel - maybe 20 minutes. A taxi cost 150 rupees, abut $2. There are several wifi cafes around, always full of trainee monks surfing the net!