Imagine you're having a dream. It's night. You're floating high,high above Bangkok. Down below you can see the lights of the city- tiny neon signs, illuminated buildings, strings of sparkling red and white pearls denoting the main highways, the tiny green and white navigation lights of the boats on the silver river. And, whilst you're floating above the night-time city, you are at the same time in a restaurant. One in which the staff are dressed like characters from Star Trek of the Jean Luc Picard era ( this bit isn't clear in the dream : I'm strictly a James T Kirk man myself), and you're wishing you'd remembered to bring your glasses, not only to read the menu, which is small shiny writing on a grey backdrop, but also to see the food when it arrives, some of the portions being small, and others absolutely tiny. And then, you manage to dig your fork into a molecular amount of ceviche, which you bring to your mouth and insert into your gaping maw . You close your lips over the minuscule victuals. And then! And then an explosion of flavours erupts on your tongue, overloading every sense your brain can register, and you wake with a start. You find yourself in an über-stylish restaurant high above nighttime Bangkok, with waiting staff in Star Trek uniforms and tiny portions of incredible food, and you realise it's not a dream at all. It's rock solid, cold stone real. And there's the rub. This restaurant is not about eating a meal in the sense of stifling pangs of hunger. It's about art, it's about intense flavours, it's about food as you'd never experience it at home, it's about the stunning views over the city. And it's about service. Service which is attentive to the point of obsession. More chefs, waiters and maître d's than you can shake a stick at. It's being accompanied to the toilet and finding the end of the toilet roll folded into a point for the benefit of the next customer. It is, in a word, extraordinary. And you should definitely try it. Don't expect to be sated unless you have really deep pockets and can afford to buy everything on the menu, or you have a small appetite. We ordered everything on the dessert menu between 6 of us to make up for under-ordering the preceding dishes. But, do expect to be blown away by culinary art and artifice in its full glory. It would be hard to single out one dish for praise because it's all fabulous. Some of the desserts lovingly crafted by pastry chef Jason were stunning,especially the fruit concoction with a sort of sake mousse ( I think but I could be dreaming ). But, for me, the tiny ceviche with a kick like a mule was the stand out experience. Highly recommended, not just for the food, but for the all-round experience. But, don't expect all this to come cheap. We paid just short of 19,000 baht (about £360) for 6 including drinks and service. Not bad for London, expensive for Bangkok. But then, how can you put a price on fine art?
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