When we arrived at the ticket office to purchase our tickets (around £2 each!) and saw the board saying all seats were fully booked, my heart sank. This is a must do experience in SL ad I was afraid I would not be able to show my husband and daughter why. With some trepidation I accepted the last available tickets for Ella to Nanu Oya in 3rd class. I have been to SL many times as it s my ancestoral home, although it was 22 years since my last visit; I knew 3rd class was probably going to be cramped, uncomfortable and the locals travelling could be accompanied by any manner of goods or animals and be packed into the carriage! Despite being shown to the embarkation point off the end of the platform in the dust; I was very wrong. It allowed us to get an amazing picture of the train as it arrived. The allocated seats were covered in a lovely blue PVC and padded! There were no standing passengers and everyone was very civilised. The windows were large enough to lean out of but better still we were able to sit with our feet hanging out of the door for long periods (we felt we had to let other people have a go) and get the best views of the passing countryside up into the tea country..... just the best part of the holiday by far. A couple of traders came down the carriage with filled buns and fresh roasted spiced nuts for just a few pence. Simple pleasures are always the best. At some of the stations local farmers bring their vegetables to the train and trade is done on the run literally as the train is moving, just as it has done for decades. Just do it and don't be put off by people who tell you tales. We thought the 2 1/2 hour journey would be tiresome.... next time we are doing the whole day trip, it was fantastic.

We were leaving for Bentota and bought our tickets in advance, not knowing how it worked. Basically, only 1st class will get you reserved seats, but you must do this in advance and through an agency - check on-line. It will cost you considerably more, but its still cheap. Otherwise, you buy a 2nd class ticket, and tickets to destinations 1-2 hours' distant are cheaper than a tube ride in London. Don't expect to get a seat, but relax - once you get on (it may seem daunting, but just move forward), settle in a place (by the doors are preferable for air and views, but between the seats is okay, too). Expect vendors and some beggars to walk around and over you - the cut pineapple and pomengranite seemed safe enough and delicious. Note: Upon returning to Colombo, passengers getting on the train will not wait for you to disembark first. Look to see where Sri Lankans are exiting and follow them. Although it can be stressful, it was a pleasure feeling the air through the open doorways. There's usually a local hanging out the door behind you, so not too much worry about falling out. It's also a great opportunity to meet other travellers.

As you come from the station with your bags, after a long train ride, you just want to get to your guesthouse or hotel. This makes you vulnerable to rip off tuk tuk drivers, who clearly team up to get as many rupees as they can. One offers an outrageous price for a ride, then when you turn away another comes up and offers a 'more reasonable' fare - but still triple or more than what you should be charged. Be warned.