First of all this is a faux city, a tourist enclave that doesn't get that many locals except for the better restaurants. That said it is pedestrian friendly and a nice break from the hustle and bustle found in the streets of a huge city of 19 million. I'm not a great tourist and I don't generally like being around other tourists (rude, noisy and provincial). But somehow here in Sultanahmet it was just fine with me; almost relaxing. Yes the shop keepers will badger you and they all seem to have PhD's in psychology or mind reading. Smile and ignore them without speaking. They are efficient with their time and won't bother with you. Make jokes and otherwise engage them and you are fresh meat. They are mostly very nice, earnest capitalists but you have just a few seconds to establish the terms of your relationship so do it firmly, in good humor and silently and do it QUICKLY.
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