The charming park is named after a famous Uruguayan writer whose monument is one of many in the park – look out for Confucious' overlooking the beach and Neptune next to a stream. Stroll the park during the day with hundreds of mate-drinking locals. Hire a pedalo and paddle around the tiny lake.
The waterside funfair (juegos mecanicos) is a step back in time. You have not ridden such a kitsch Ghost Train since you were 10. Off season it opens on weekends only. A children's funfair is on the other side of the park (the corner of Blv Artigas and 21 de setiembre) and opens during the day.
If you are here on Sundays join La Melaza, Montevideo's only all-woman candombe drumming troupe (cuerda de tambores), at their weekly open-air drumming session. Join them on Blanes street at around 8 pm on the corner of Gonzalo Ramirez by the steps. Their route takes them along San Salvador. Just follow the sound of drums. See http://uruguaynow.com/la_melaza_candombe.php
Sundays is actually the worst day to go view wise because the locals tend to litter a lot (the rest of the week there is an army of street cleaners out tackling them) and the Sunday street market adds to the general messy environment.
The street market is primarily for locals - cheaply made clothes and such.
If you are cooking for yourself what IS worth visiting on Sundays is the small organic farmers market, the only one I am aware of in Montevideo. It has a small cheese and jams stand and the other stands all sell vegetables and some fruit. It's open from early in the morning till produce runs out (around 1pm).
Beware of asking for directions to the farmers market ("feria organica") as you will undoubtedly be directed to the main market and never find it! It is hidden between the Defensor Sporting Club and the children's playground. Get off the bus or taxi on 21 de setiembre and facing the DSC the market is to your left.
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