We had not been back to Bali for years and Ubud was such a disappointment. It has become a tourists trap and going around the city is just not pleasant anymore.
However, the Alaya resort was excellent. Relaxing, nice rooms, good service and restaurant with a great breakfast. Beautiful spa starting at $40, which is way more than in the city but worth the experience. Best massage we had in Bali. Would definitely recommend the Alaya although a bit on the expensive side. But don't stay too long in Ubud and head East, West or North to really enjoy the spirit of Bali.More