This wasn't my first experience of a ryokan, but it was for my family and they loved it! There was a bit of anxiety about sleeping on the floor and eating a Japanese breakfast but it really lets you know you're somewhere different in the world.
The host here is wonderful and can assist you with any enquiries about where to go and what to do. The staff are the epitome of Japanese hospitality and will do everything they can to make your stay enjoyable (though most don't speak English).
My parents are both in their seventies, so getting up and down is not so simple anymore, but they coped really well. They were given small chairs to sit on at breakfast (instead of sitting on a cushion) and my dad was able to get a different type of pillow for his neck (the pillows here are those buckwheat pillows, so bring a travel pillow if you have issues). My husband also found the feather-filled quilts too hot, so was able to substitute them for blankets.
We only ate breakfast here and had dinner at restaurants recommended by the host. One tempura restaurant around the corner was fantastic. It only seats about 10 people and you won't get a better meal!
There is a espresso machine in the foyer of this ryokan, but it is not very strong. It will get you out of trouble if you need a coffee to start your day, but you may have to go around the corner to Soeur Cafe, a no-smoking cafe! Other cafes in Takayama allow smoking.
The onsen it really a treat. I had to convince my husband to try it and he was in heaven! You have to follow the strict bath etiquette (wash before you get in, etc.) but if this is your only chance to try a Japanese hot bath, you must! One bath is hotter than the other and they change on a daily basis, sometimes twice a day, so check the signs before walking in. Strictly segregated, one for men, one for women, it's a lovely way to end a day of walking, especially in winter.
And yes, it is expensive to stay here, but you're on holidays and you may never be back this way again.