Forget Dubrovnik - Trogir has all the beauty and age, but without the huge crowds of Dubrovnik. This is not to say though that it is not lively. A large portion of the visitors are Croatian, Bosnian or other near by countries. It is happily free of the big brands that tend to follow the English tourists.
The tiny town itself is a criss-cross of marble paved alleys, archways and crumbling old houses. Cafes and restaurants fill every square, and they are busy even at 2 or 3 in the morning.
The promenade is glamorous although visited by yachts of the very rich, and therefore very tasteless, but impressive if only to show that wealth has no affect on good taste!
In the old castle they often have open air concerts with a distinctly local air, although sometimes pandering too much to what they think tourists perceive of local culture. Open air films are the best - an old reel projector that they have to change half way.
Before the cathedral you will find some of the best ice cream in Croatia, specifically in Djiovani's.
People are very friendly, a few words of Croatian will find you sitting next to your neighbours, joining in the evening singing, or sharing a glass of home made wine.
The shops sell all the same stuff, which almost adds to their charm - a kind of naivety in the approach. The coffee is not as good as it should be, and never drink it on the promenade, but a few of the hidden cafes will give you a good Kava s'miljekom (coffee with milk)..!