My guide knew the community well and they knew him - I found myself nodding to people, chatting to them about their homes and heritage; a very nice touch. I have gone to other historical walks, but this was personal - people shared the eternal conundrum of living in the past while looking toward the future. There was both pride in their heritage as well as a resentment, I felt, in having to perform history and culture for tourists.
The saddest part of this tour was the number of dilapidated and abandoned houses; their owners having left Goa for Bombay or Portugal. If walls could talk, what stories would these houses tell?
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