We decided to rent a car from Fortuna to do this hike and other things in the area - so glad we did. Quoted at $115/pp to take an 8 (I think) hour tour here with a bunch of other people, we paid less for our own car for two days and were also able to do Venado Caves in the same day. We got to the park entrance (there are two, and I'm not sure which we were at) just after 8 am, when it opened. It is about 1.5 hours from Fortuna. There were people at the entrance to answer questions and show us the map of the area. We wore rubber boots, although with the amount of mud, I think we could have gotten away with our Chacos.
We came first to the spectacular waterfall, and had it all to ourselves! Then we continued up along a milky blue river to the point where the two normal colored rivers mix and change to blue. So pretty. At this point, we did see a group of 3 people that had come in from the other entrance. Other than that, we saw no one until we were almost back to the beginning. Highly recommend doing this hike first thing in the morning. Super beautiful, I'm glad we were able to get there. We found it no problem w/ GPS - never would have found it with just directions. We booked it pretty fast, but we aren't in excellent shape, and it took 2 hours. I think this was fast because the guy at the entrance thought we had just gone to the waterfall instead of doing the entire hike. We did see some wildlife, including a 4 foot oriole snake that startled us both!
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