I've experienced the touristy markets all over, and this one was one of my favorites!
The people, the crowd, the music, the liveliness, and the selection of goods make this a great market!
We were staying in the neighborhood of San Telmo (also recommended), so that meant we could leisurely stroll and browse without a time limit. This made the experience more memorable and enjoyable. The musicians play drums (candomble) and the women just come into the street and dance. This occurred until long after most vendors were leaving (they left around 7-8p and the dancing continued at least until midnight). The goods are generally what you would find at most markets - art, jewelry, leather goods, sweaters, etc. but there is the section of small antiques in plaza dorrego. The art was mainly near that plaza also. As far as deals, some things are a deal (some earrings, some wooden goods) while others are comparable to what one would pay in the u.s. (some leather, some jewelry, some art, sweaters, etc). We came more because of the experience than the deals. And also because I collect street art, and markets like these are the best/only place to find that in most cases.
We had no problem with pickpockets and never felt unsafe, despite being two American women. We felt very welcome, even though we did not exactly blend in. Many of the vendors were so friendly - one man even poured us several cups of his bottles water because it was so hot.
We felt the heartbeat of the city and of culture at this market and the surrounding area. Don't miss it!
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