There is a reason why Bagan has no poor or terrible reviews at all! It is amazing, nothing like I have ever seen before.
We went during rainy season which I think was the best time to go since there were way less tourists. The view from Shwesandaw at sunset was spectacular, but even in low season it was busy, although we did go there when the festival for the beginning of Buddhist lent was so there were a lot of monks from around Myanmar there. I recommend going to lesser known temples as well which you can climb for sunset and any other time! The disadvantage of going in rainy season is that the sunsets aren't as you see in the postcards, however I thought the clouds actually gave Bagan a mystical feeling and they made the temperature cooler. There was rain but it only rained for a very short time and very little.
The pony and trap ride we took for a short time was fun.
Make sure you go before it gets too modernized, as then it won't be so good, and there will probably be a large 'M' on Ananda temple! There is already a large watch tower which spoils the view and the large museum was annoyingly under the sun when we went in July.
Where ever you go there will always be souvenir sellers trying to get you to buy, and some use very effective techniques; you might have to use 'no thank you' a lot of times before they give up.
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