Move over The Mews and Front Street there's a new game in town and it's called Backstreet. If you can find it you are in for a treat. Tucked away from noisy Commercial Street bedlam on Bradford Street is a great new fine dining establishment. Backstreet with Chef Raul and newlywed owners Rassa & Chris is cooking up some of the best modern cuisine Provincetown has seen in quite some time. The new owners have quickly turned the old 10 Tables Restaurant into a must see, must eat at culinary treat.
We were a party of 7 that straggled in over the course of a half hour but received nothing but courteous treatment. We were greated by a most pleasant hostess that ushered us to a lovely private dining room with french doors that closed and allowed our louder guests to enjoy their delicious Pear Martini's without the consternation of being too boisterous or disruptive to other dinners. The atmosphere although sparse was in true bistro form. There is an outdoor patio with abundant room, well light and stationed with an outdoor heater for the cooler nights.
After a peak in the kitchen we were impressed with the order and cleanliness of the restaurant. From the silver to the glassware to the interestingly shaped dishes were all obviously relatively new and well kept. I'm a stickler for a pristine table setting. No foggy glassware for me.
Decked with wooden floors the din was high but not annoying. After all a little noise is part of the hustle and bustle of Provincetown. The service was both colorful and entertaining. Our server was from Eastern Europe but spoke perfect english and was attentive and good humored as he playfully went about business. It put us both at ease and made us secure in knowing that what to come was going to be well executed. We were not to be disappointed. Alas, we ate and drank merrily never rushed nor ignored.
But the best of all and most important was the food. There was an adequate selection of wine by the bottle. I ordered a house red which was both ample and pleasantly piquant. With a party of 7 what else to do but order a bevy of appetizers.
Our starters included a perfectly cooked Marinated Skirt Steak with Mandarin Glaze and Orange Gremolata, the most delicious Duck Confit Rolls with Ginger Plum Gastrique, juicy and succulent Fried Clams and Backstreet Mussels, delicate and silky Cognac Crepes and finally my favorite a Spicy Tuna Tartare with avocado relish, hominy cake and Habanero sauce. It was to die for.
Each appetizer was not only impeccably prepared but a sight for the eyes. These were not tiny bits of rehashed entree but rather bountiful, artfully crafted and skilfully executed true first course meals. The prices and portions were commensurate.
After a superb beginning it was on to salads. We tasted the spicy Ceasar salad that came with the most amazing hominy croutons. Our server suggested we eat the croutons while still warm as they had a slight tendency to cool. Good suggestion, Often restaurants substitute those hard, barely digestible little blocks of bread but not here. On this chilled, crispy romaine classic we find richly warm slightly toasted hominy cubes that were center soft and melted in your mouth. Kudos to a fresh idea on an old favorite. Well not to be outdone, heirloom tomatoes with basil and burrata (a softer more palatable buffalo mozzarella type cheese) were a bit early in the season but an admirable attempt nonetheless.
On to the entree. Our table ordered throughout the menu. We sampled things such as Back Street Shrimp and Grits with Sweet Potato Smoked-Chile, Guanciale and Cantal , Handmade Linguini in White Clam Sauce and Lobster Tail, Braised Pork Shank with coffee smoked chile molasses reduction, rare marinated Grilled Tuna with Apricot-Mint Glaze, Green-Chile Toasted Pine Nut Quinoa(that grain that feeds nations), Spiced Rubbed New York Strip with Bourbon-Ancho Glaze, Sweet Potato Risotto, Roasted Wild Mushrooms. I had the Steak and a sample of the Tuna from a friend whose kindness shows no bounds. Both were just grand! My meat was perfectly cooked, beautifully marked and rare like I like. The risotto was heavenly creamy and a nice accompaniment. The Tuna was spectacular and would probably order it myself next time.
The portions were plentiful and the entree appropriately priced. We almost skipped dessert with 3 diabetics at the table but Rassa brought us a delightful confection that she made herself. We ended by enjoying double espressos and coffee that was as good as I make at home.
Well, all in all from the ambiance to the service to cleanliness to the food we had a first rate experience. With a table of gay men you are bound to find a complainer in the midst. But not here. Each of us enjoyed that blissful sensation of gastronomic delight in the quietude and peace that is pleasant fine dining.
Own or manage this property? Claim your listing for free to respond to reviews, update your profile and much more.