Had to say a couple of words about this place (and also the town it's in, which gets less visitors than it should.) Swellendam is the third-oldest Afrikaner town in South Africa. That's not a simple history, obviously, but it remains hugely interesting and instructive to see the heartland in all its pride and complexity. There's an incredible nature reserve (Marloth) just north of town -- you hike through the most stunning peaks -- and the food options are very solid: The Old Gaol for casual stuff, and the Drostdy or Koornlands for something more festive (with the former being less starchy and in a gorgeous setting).
But the real highlight of the stay was this cottage, more than two centuries old, and decorated with the utmost taste. The rooms are huge (mine had its own private garden), the bathrooms are massive (clawfoot tub), the bed was king-size and soft, and the morning breakfast was... well, I couldn't eat it all. There's a pool, too. And Vera and Etienne, who run it, are wonderful -- you feel like you're staying in their home, which you kind of are. Utterly charming experience all around, and for $450 ($40) per night if you're solo. It was all I could do not to tell Etienne he should charge double.
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