The park was stunning, but too many restrictions to make it really enjoyable. They only let you drive on it one day out of the month. You have to pay to hike on one of their longer trails. The shuttle service to the back country only runs basically on the weekends. I was quite frustrated with all of the can't dos. I did enjoy the one hour van tour, though. It was very informative about the area. The guide was very friendly and knowledgeable. Just make sure you read everything very carefully on their website before you go in order to plan. We were there during the week when there wasn't much going on. The staging areas are closed during the week as well.
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