We walked all the way from center of Anacapri to Grotta Azzurra and when we got there learned that the Grotta was chinos (closed!)so we sat at the little terrace bar/ cafe and had fresh lemonade and a cappacino and fresh, homemade apple torte which was very good. This is a limited menu bar, with a few souvenirs, but the lemonade was cold and tasty, and the view is stupendous . We watched about 20 boats arrive, sail into the grotto area, watch the captains explain to their disappointed travelers that the grotto was closed, and watch the majority sail away. What was unique was that for about four of the boats that hovered close by the entrance, young passengers, would put on their goggles, take off their jackets, and sure enough, jump into sea, swimming past the chain and into the grotto. They would disappear for about 10 minutes , then reappear into view , swim back to their rented private boat, climb the ladder and triumphantly motion they had seen the blueness of the grotto and were ready to depart before being caught for going into the prohibited area, their captain could now leave. Without hearing a word, we could see this story unfold several times as we watched the private boats and tourist groups come close to the entrance far below us, and reluctantly, accepting they could not get in, depart to sail around the rest of the island's edge.
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