I have been to the Hazel River Inn a number of times, with the same partner, and we have always had excellent food. The emphasis is central European, with a strong selection of wines, many of them from Virginia; and the cooking has, in our experience, always been first-rate. And we have had service of that same high standard; but also (less frequently) service that was enthusiastic and attentive but pretty amateurish by comparison with the sophisticated offerings on the menu. Even in those cases, though, the excellence of the cuisine has far outshone the comparatively less impressive service; and the atmosphere - that of a nineteenth-century American country inn - is utterly charming.
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