Visit on open mic night if you can (from what I hear it's usually Monday, like when we went) and you will get blown away by the skill of the average Jill and Joe's that stand up to play. We were told that Monday was the day that most of the service industry folks in the area go out for their fun and that tip really paid off.
Okay, now for the "not feint of heart" part. Dimly lit street, side streets almost scarily dark. The bars here are not neat and tidy and well put together but they do serve great drinks and food.
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