Well, what can I say ? We wanted to do the Dali stuff, and we wanted to chill without the kids, so we chose the #1 hotel on Tripadvisor and booked through Expedia. We noted from others not to book breakfast (17 Euros each per day).
Hotel is fine, we booked an economy room and got a proper bath with shower over, small but fine. Cost us £62 per night - which is Travellodge prices for a last minute booking. They tried to upgrade us to a water view room for 40 Euros a night extra !!
Pool is lovely, but getting a bit cool in mid September, Jacuzzi on the roof would be lovely if it was a bit warmer.
Empuriabrava is a late 60s purpose built resort, with canals and boat moorings for many properties. It's a bit tired, but the hotel is in one of the better bits, and there's no high rise. Clearly lots of money around here, many French, German and Dutch, not many Brits (good thing too). Beach is 3 minutes walk, very nice. Roses beach (North) and Castillo d'Empuries beach (South) are both great too, finer sand.
Lots of cars around, but very few people. All apartment based, no significant hotels in the resort. Quite a lot of restaurants, but not cheap. We ate at Capitan (just around the corner) and actually on the front, both were fine, in a "good decent standard food" kind of way. Nothing to complain about, but expect to pay 100 Euro for two with wine.
Day 3 we decided to eat in the hotel restaurant - just fantastic. 85 Euros for a meal that would have graced the best cruise ships, so good that we ate there again the next day - (just as good). We had Lobster risotto, pheasant, octopus and a wondrous salad. You'll not get food like this anywhere else in the resort - I'm guessing the chef trained at El Bulli - it was that good. Staff lovely too. It seems a shame to not try other places really, but if we went back, we'd eat there every night.
For breakfast, there is a big supermarket across the main junction, does great fresh bread/pastries. Cafe Cuba across the road from hotel does coffee (not take away) and has WiFi too. Don't waste 34 Euro a day in the hotel, it just can't be worth it.
Dali stuff is great in Cadaques, Museum is mad, jewellery is fabulous, his house in Port Lligat is well worth a trip too - but book time slot online before you go. If you turn up on spec, you will NOT get in (as a number of French folks discovered). Don't forget to go all the way to the top of the garden to see the "Rubbish Christ" - it's not signposted, but is just stunning, As compelling in it's way as the famous Crucifixion picture at Kelvingrove.
One other thing, that if you are planning to go to this area you probably already know. So many people fly to Girona and just head to Barcelona. Don't make the mistake of missing out on Girona itself, just a magical old city, worth a full day on it's own.
We booked car with Holidayautos (part of last minute.com). We got a Ford Focus with every single panel scratched, it was so bad it was funny, so my advice would be to take out maximum insurance cover and take a good digital video camera with you. Ryanair flights were as always cramped, like a cattle truck and cheap(ish) and on time. No complaints - this is what you pay for, but just a smile would help.
In summary - nice place to chill - no nightlife - expensive - best place to eat in town
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- Hotel Port Salins