The setting for this hotel is singular enough: yards round the corner from the extraordinary, though now slightly tourist-oriented, troglodite village of Kandovan. Taking a cue from the village there has been an extraordinary project to dig into the rocky cliff to make guest accommodation and provide all the facilities of a modern hotel. One consequence is that we found we had to ascend 150 stone steps to reach our room, then descend half of these to cross a terrace to ascend as many again to reach the restaurant: and back again afterwards. The porters carrying bags up and down and providing room service earned our respect. The interior walls are done out in mortar, so there is no contact with the rock inside: the furnishing was comfortable and pleasant, and the rooms had windows, underfloor heating, wifi, telephone and running water - and a kettle to make tea. There was an improvised and unfinished air to some of the facilities, and some works seemed to be ongoing. We were told that some rooms had a slightly damp smell, but ours was fine. First impressions were of a rather tacky establishment: the reception is in a portakabin in the carpark at the base of the cliff, and the rails along the edge of the rocky terraces were of painted cement shaped to look like a loose web of tree branches. However, we were comfortable there, we had a lovely view, the food was good, coffee was obtainable, the staff were friendly and helpful, and the taxi they arranged for our 3am trip to the airport did the job.