We stayed at Hotel Zefiros in the second week of September and I can honestly say it was the most enjoyable holiday I have ever had. From the moment we arrived we were made to feel absolutely at home by Johnny, Irene and their staff who all went out of their way to make our stay as easy, comfortable and fun as possible. The different floors of the hotel are linked by outdoor steps which are pleasantly framed by vines and flowers; our standard double was up two flights and Johnny sprinted up them with our very heavy suitcase. The room was larger than we expected as it had a second single bedroom which was useful for storage purposes. The decor was simple but tasteful, perfect for our needs, and the room was very quiet and dark at night. There was a fridge with an ice-box which was handy. Outside there was a shared sun terrace, each room having its own table and chairs and an airer.
We arrived around midnight so were pleasantly surprised to discover exactly how close to the beach the hotel was when we awoke; the view of the crystal clear blue bay from the window was just beautiful. Hotel Zefiros is a very striking building; we particularly liked the dining room and its balcony, which have been very sympathetically decorated. Although the continental breakfast was included as standard, we were encouraged to try anything we liked from the menu each morning; everything was delicious, particularly the local honey, and the coffee was very good. Try their famous ginger beer later in the day, and cocktails in the evening. As well as Hotel Zefiros, other places we can recommend for a meal are Limani and Alipa at the port, and if you fancy a steak then Hotel Apollon a few doors down from Hotel Zefiros is very good.
Zefiros made a great base from which to explore Paleokastritsa, and I would say that it is in the nicest part of Paleo. There is a cash machine literally next door to the hotel, and a well-stocked supermarket about 20 metres up the road. Johnny was only too happy to give us advice and assistance should we need it. We visited each of the nearby beaches, spending most time on St Spiridon since it was right on our doorstep. This time of year it was not crowded at all and the weather was still hot, but not so hot as to be unpleasant. The water was beautifully clear and there were plenty of fish to be seen just by snorkelling from the beach. If snorkelling isn't for you, we'd recommend a trip on the Yellow Submarine which leaves from Alipa port, a couple of mins walk away. It is more of a boat with a glass-walled pod and seats below. 10 Euros well spent. From the same company you can rent your own motor boat for the day, which is great fun and allows you access to many secluded private beaches nearby. The staff are extremely friendly and were able get we novices up to speed on boat handling within a few minutes.
The monastery on the hill above Paleo is easy to reach on foot in about 15 minutes from the hotel; at the top there is a superb view of the headland, and a cafe from which take it in. If you bring a torch you can walk up this way at night and you will be rewarded with a stunning view of the lights of Paleo and the nearby villages twinkling on the water below, with the stars above. Magical.
On one day it was slightly hazy so we took the path up to Lakones, in the hills above Paleo. The walk up through the olive groves takes around half an hour and is not very taxing considering how much height you gain in so short a time. It was very peaceful and there were plenty of opportunities to take a short break and admire the view. At the top Lakones is rather sleepy; following the road round to the west we came upon Cafe Dulce, which has a superb rooftop terrace with unrivalled views down to Paleo and across the island. Their baked feta was the best we'd had. From Lakones you can follow the road right round to Makrades and the Byzantine castle Angelokastro, which is worth a visit.
Paleo is well connected to Corfu Town and there are regular buses which run from a stop 50m from Hotel Zefiros and get you there in 45 mins. We did not feel the need to hire a car during our trip but should you need to there are plenty of opportunities to do so.
In the evenings Paleo is fairly quiet - this is exactly why we chose it as we wanted total relaxation, and we definitely got that. Several of the local hotels run Greek nights which sound lively if you're after more excitement, and the Yellow Submarine offers a night cruise. We enjoyed chatting with Johnny, his staff and guests over drinks at the hotel of an evening. Johnny is a charming, affable and philosophical guy and we feel so grateful to him and his family for lavishing such hospitality on us. It was a wrench to leave after only a week so I should think we will definitely be returning. I cannot recommend Hotel Zefiros highly enough; you will not find a welcome like this anywhere, and the location has to be seen to be believed.