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Plan Your Split Holiday: Best of Split

Explore Split

Thanks to its many former rulers (Roman, Austrian, and Yugoslav, to name a few), Split is a European city unlike any other. What you get is a one-of-a-kind mix of architecture and history on every cobblestoned corner: ancient ruins, open-air flea markets, centuries-old cathedrals—it’s a city seemingly frozen in time. And just beyond you’ll find the Adriatic Sea, home to pretty beaches and tranquil turquoise waters. Split is a walkable city and people tend to hang outdoors. The Riva, known as Split’s living room, is the city’s seaside promenade and a popular place to have an espresso and people watch. Relax at Kašjuni or Bačvice Beaches or use them as a launching-off point to other nearby islands. There’s lots more to do and we’ve got recs below.
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How to do Split in 3 days

Sapphire seas, Roman ruins, and a courtyard café
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A local food tour of Split

Every time I’m in Croatia visiting my family, I try to make a stopover in Split, solely to eat. The food in this coastal city is to die for—and the restaurant scene really comes alive in the summer. (This joie de vivre is called gusti in Croatian.) From kebabs to fish stew, here are my favourite local bites in Split.
muradominko, New York City, NY
  • Bokamorra Pizzaurant & Cocktails
    852
    This hip hangout has excellent cocktails and the best pizza in town. Not to mention the ambiance—it is the place to see and be seen. They serve a variety of Neapolitan-style pies that will satisfy the pickiest of pizza snobs, from a margherita made with fior di latte mozzarella to slices topped with shrimp tails and black truffles. My personal go-tos are the caramelized onion pie and the mortadella with arugula and pistachio pesto.
  • Artičok
    1,008
    I will return to Artičok again and again not only because it’s one of the liveliest rooftops in Old Town but also because the food always hits the spot. The menu is elevated but unfussy, with a particularly strong risotto and pasta section. I highly recommend Dalmatian specialties like the aged cheese starter and the traditional fish stew, called gregada.
  • Kantun Paulina
    880
    You can’t visit the coast of Croatia (or really anywhere in the country) without coming across ćevapi—aka the national kebab. And Kantun Paulina is the perfect street food counter to order this delicacy for the first of the thousandth time. Get a traditional ćevapi sandwich in lepinja bread and make sure to add a side of ajvar (bell pepper and aubergine jam), kajmak (white cheese schmear), and some raw onions (if you can handle it).
  • Konoba Fetivi
    1,959
    A konoba is a homey tavern you’ll find in every Dalmatian town (yes, even the tiniest ones). In Split, Fetivi stands out thanks to its daily fresh catch specials. The restaurant is run by a family who has lived in the region for 300 years. Their expertise is evident in every detail, from the local wine and small-batch homemade olive oil to the bread that’s still warm from the oven.
  • Os Kolac
    133
    Hot take: This pastel-hued bakery has the sweetest patisseries and cakes in Split. Though you can’t go wrong with any of the options, I highly recommend the signature Barba Cicak (olive oil sponge cake), the lemony Sjor Limun, and the mango passionfruit cheesecake. And don’t forget to grab an espresso or a latte to wash your dessert down!
  • Kinoteka
    296
    Tucked away in one of Old Town’s leafy courtyards, Kinoteka is ideal for a romantic dinner or in the daytime, a cool boozy brunch. As for the food, it’s an interesting mix of rustic Croatian fare, like slow-cooked veal and pasta with cabbage, and trendier bites such as tempura, kimchi, and lobster chips. The craft cocktails are on point, too.
  • Villa Spiza
    1,845
    This place embodies Croatian culture—it’s all about family, food, and live music. Although Villa Spiza is small (it’s divided between two outposts across the street from each other), it packs a punch of personality and authenticity (you might even befriend a local). The seasonal menu changes often, but some staples are regularly available. I suggest sampling grilled shark, monkfish stew, prawn pasta, or a steak selected by the local butcher.
  • Gelateria Emiliana
    354
    Alright, I’ll admit it. I’ve been to Rome and the Amalfi Coast, but Emiliana is hands-down the best gelato I’ve ever tasted. Whenever I’m in Split, I make a beeline here to treat myself to a freshly baked waffle cone with a scoop (or two) of unique flavours like fig and ricotta, pistachio, or orange.
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