At one end a pier, and  around the bay, a curve of tall, grey Vicorian houses and hotels.This is  a  seaside town with the style of yesterday. The day  was grey and blustery, maybe not so attractive but  despite that, the place was charming and atmospheric. People sat on benches eating their fish and chips not from newspapers but trendy cardboad boxex. Seagulls swooped around and one fell from the sky like a missile, and snatched a pastry from someone's hand. So Hitcock's film was true, after all. So beware.  The seaguls of Aberystwth know where to get their next meal and it's not from the  sea.

   Behind the front was a maze of back streets. Not so many chain stores, or those that were there seemed to blend  in. So the town still has local, independent, interesting, shops. One in particular, amongst others, is worth a visit.: old, dark and like an  Alladin's cave, it had  a delicous range of cheeses. Huge chunks and slabs of cheese, and looking through the window, since it was closed,  different breads and perhaps olives..

There's a tiny cinema and various information centeres and the town is on the doorstep of  the dramatic scenery of  North Wales. Aberystwyth was the setting for the tv. series of Hinterlad so for atmosphere and a Welsh version of Bronte  type landscape; here isolation and mystery among the mountains instead of moorland, go there. Also check out the Art Center . Plays , talks and a good bookshop, it's just behind the National Library of Wales,  a large, imposing building, it sits  broodingly  looks over the town.