One of the best restaurants in Bordeaux with one of the best restaurant wine lists isn't French; it's Chinese. Au Bonheur du Palais specializes in the cuisines of Canton and Szechuan (Sichuan, in the French spelling) and everything on the menu is absolutely authentic. Tommy Shan, who founded the restaurant and runs it with his family, travels to China every year to collect new recipes and local spices. Don't expect to be overwhelmed by hot spices . These dishes are complex, with no one spice overwhelming the others. Each member of the family working in the kitchen has his or her own specialty, and every dish is made to order in a labor of love. The staff shop at Bordeaux's professional food market around 2 am to be sure of getting the freshest ingredients. The menu changes according to the market but a few favorites are the sublime "bras croises" (crossed arms) dumplings in a spicy sauce, chicken in sesame sauce, gambas coated in coconut and ground rice, and dishes featuring pork, lamb, duck, beef and all sorts of vegetables. Order several dishes and be ready to share. The wine list has wines from all over France, many hard to find, and so reasonably priced that the restaurant is a favorite among local winemakers. The staff is excellent at advising wines that go well with this kind of food. (Try the wine from Cadillac, across the river from Sauternes, as an aperitif.) Address: 74 rue Paul-Louis-Lande, Bordeaux, tel. 05 56 94 38 63. Only open evenings. Closed Sunday, most of August and some French holidays. Reservations advised.