Alwar starte separated from Jaipur only in 1779, but its capital soon had cluster of palace buildings at the foot of a huge hilltop fort. Vinai Vilas (1840), the City Palace, was already filled with bureaucrats, conjuring up the image of a bustling prince's household when the rulers were living in their most extravagant ways (the stables held 3,000 horses).

The top floor of the wonderful museum at the City Palace houses royal treasures and knick-knacks, including some gold miniatures, musical instruments, and items displaying Raj loyalty.

It is also worth seeking out the Musi Maharani Ki Chhatro (mausolea), the mini Simla in Campany Bagh, the sixteenth century Mughal tomb of Fateh Jung and beautiful Vijay Mandir, where the late maharaja lived (permission to visit can be obtained from his son's on-sote secretary). To visit the hilltop fort, seek permission (usually given instantly) from the superintendent of police at the City Palace.